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Fashion

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: Maticevski Resort 2016

Folds, ruffles, bustles, pleats, splits and cascading volumes of fabric, this is Australian fashion designer Toni Maticevski’s Resort 2016. This collection is a parade where the body and garment dance together.

A beautifully restrained monochromatic palette glints with metallic brocade and geometric lace, Maticevski crafts in a structured almost mathematical way, every organic fall meticulously engineered. Perhaps it’s the influence of working alongside the Australian Ballet – with its peripheral male form, sense of feminine strength and fragility and elaborate cloth creations – that brings the energy of something deliciously dangerous.

Credits: Toni Maticevski via Style.com

Maticevski Resort 2016

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

In/Out: YIELD

A pure philosophy of quality objects, ethically produced, both functional and decorative are core to design duo, Rachel Gant and Andrew Deming, of Yield. The self proclaimed “New American Standards”, it’s fitting that Yield is based in Saint Augustine, Florida, the oldest European settlement in the USA.

Yield is a collection of feel good objects, honest in their materiality – dull brass, copper ready for patina by many hands, calico bags with vegetable dyed tanned leather, and matte-finish ceramics – and in their production. Objects not manufactured in the USA, (such as ‘French Press’ from Hanoi in Vietnam) are diligently sourced from a Fair Trade makers around the globe.

As expressed by Yield, “Beauty, sustainability and ethical production are not at odds – they must all be considered to create something of true worth. Anything created at someone else’s expense is not beautiful and the manufacturing of disposable goods for short term benefit has robbed our natural resources for too long. We bear a responsibility to create timeless pieces that last. Buy for keeps or please do not buy at all.”

Even though Gant and Deming celebrate the classic forms they embrace the future through the collection. Gold cast rings, with names like ‘Century’, ‘Infinity’ and ‘Primary’ are three-dimensionally printed. Yield is a collision of worlds both past and present, that come together with such gracious serenity.

Credits: Yield

YIELD

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

In/Out: Sophie Buhai 'Jewellery'

We first met Sophie Buhai a year ago on IN/Out. We featured the fruits of her labour from an artist in residency at the Tuscan guesthouse Villa Lena, where the former fashion design began exploring her creative desire to produce sculptural adornments. This was the turning point for Buhai, an industrious, bright and infectiously inspiring creator. Now devoted full time to her jewellery line Buhai’s offering is complemented by a collection of object both crafted and curated.

Buhai’s jewels are not sparkly or flashy but honed and refined until one singular perfect shape is revealed. They are weighty honest objects with a Bauhausian simplicity. Solid silver neck cuffs and turned timber bracelets are oversized, elongating the limbs that wear them. Restrained and controlled forms, Buhai’s pieces have an organic nature to them – a simple egg, a skeletal silhouette – harping back to the days of timeless beauty. Reminiscent of a Helmut Newton photo they are striking and seductive, complex in their simplicity.

Credits: Sophie Buhai

Sophie Buhai Jewellery

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

Dinosaur Designs 'Flower'

With the unfurling of a petal, the gentle nod of a head and the flamboyant ripple of a skirt, Dinosaur Designs‘ new collection ‘Flower’ is a blossoming of brilliant colour and life – the beautiful progression from Creative Director Louise Olsen’s 2014 Seed Pod collection.

With the artful realisation of opaque, translucent and mottled textures of resin, Olsen’s elegant structural forms are delicate yet weighty. Celebrating the “unexpected nature of nature”, ‘Flower’ evokes both fragility and strength, and continues that endless exploration of the dialogue between human and plant life.

Credits: Dinosaur Designs

Dinosaur Designs ‘Flower’

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out- THIS & THAT: ELLERY & TREVOR MEIN

Australian creatives fashion designer Kym Ellery, and photographer Trevor Mein, come powerfully together in this ‘This & That’. Daring and defiant, their art forms are visually arresting; an atmospheric envelopment, one rebelliously tailored, the other wild and vast.

Voluminous, tonal forms of strength and fluidity, Ellery’s funnelled bell silhouettes and colossal dress coats are in sync with the engulfing presence of Mein’s cloudscapes, which tempestuously swirl above us on the eve of winter.

Credits: Images courtesy of the artist Trevor Mein via Otomys Gallery and Ellery

THIS & THAT: ELLERY PRE-FALL ’15 & TREVOR MEIN

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: Ryan Lobo

Although fashion design duo Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome hail from Sydney, last week was the very first time the pair have shown at Fashion Week Australia. It was somewhat of a home coming for New York based Lobo and Martin.

Late last year we had the very good fortune of catching up with one half of Tome; an energised Ryan Lobo, for a wonderful short and snappy Chat in a Chair. With the heavily anticipated inaugural showing down under, we spoke with Lobo about what drives the creative dream that is Tome.

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: Ryan Lobo

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: Ryan Lobo

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3_tome

As a designer who strives to interpret the wondrous complexity of the female form, it is really no wonder that Lobo’s chair of choice is the iconic Eames® Moulded Plywood Lounge Chair, colloquially known as the ‘LCW’. With its compounded curves and exquisite minimalist configuration, it continues to feel contemporary seventy years since its inception. To Lobo, it is “…understated, casual, comfortable confidence”. It is a harmonious coupling – the sincerity of the LCW with the elegance of Lobo’s work – both sharing a sublime understanding of the fundamentals of basic beauty.

Lobo and Martin share a wealth of experience and an infectious passion for fashion, design and art. Recognising each other’s strengths early in their careers whilst studying a Bachelor of Design, Fashion at the University of Technology Sydney they took their time to come together with the knowledge that if they were ever to start a label, it would be together. Martin moved to Europe and the USA to work for Alberta Ferretti, Jean Paul Gaultier and Derek Lam and Lobo worked as a creative consultant, stylist and buyer for prominent Australian brands and magazines. Building their skills independently until the natural sense of time was ripe to come together has resulted in a well-rounded, mature and professional friendship. In 2011, with the world under their belt Tome was born (and remains still) within the world’s most inspiring creative metropolis, New York City.

Tome is not restricted to a place or a time rather, it celebrates the ‘every woman’ who dresses in the infinite wearability – clear cut, essential dressing – of Tome’s classic tailoring, soft silhouettes and seasonal hits of artistically-curated colour.

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: TOME

Lobo & Martin have always found remarkable women, both historical and contemporary, to inspire creative stories. For their recent Cruise/Pre fall 2015 collection shown at Fashion Week Australia, Lobo and Martin revisited their teenage crush on the Sylvia Plath masterpiece ‘The Bell Jar’, touched by the depth of its aching beauty. They rediscovered their fascination by listening to voice recordings of Plath’s own voice reading poetry. The visions materialised with crisp structure and 50s-esque silhouettes in largely black and white with an almost restricted sense of femininity. Pieces that are coloured subvert the order of the tailoring with ensembles that pair the soft bodily tones of flesh pink with berry-stained red, and baby blue with electric blue. Sublime details peek through; arcs of lace, square pleats at the bottom of plunging necklines or a provocative slit to the front of a high necked blouse. All ensembles are bound at the waist or the neck with a suggestive gesture of restraint.

The Tome woman is of her time and of all time. She is a vision of both strength and vulnerability.

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: Ryan Lobo

In/Out - Chat in a Chair: Ryan Lobo

Who are your favourite artists and why?
I have always loved formidable female artists and their practice. I learnt very young that women have been written out of the history books (well beyond the art world) and so I guess that spurred my interest in art created by women.

I was always intrigued by Hannah Höch, Fiona Hall, Louise Bourgeois, Shirin Neshat, Yoko Ono and Tracey Moffat to name a few.

Art and literature has always informed you work. How do you go about translating what you are inspired by into a marketable piece of clothing?
We are two men who make clothes for women so we miss out on the ultimate purpose of clothing – to actually wear it! So we don’t fall into fantasy with our clothes we select women as our muse for each collection, a kind of guiding light, and become absorbed in that woman’s world. We read about her life, her art practice, and are often as intrigued by her output as her inner life. We are often as attracted to the strictness of their work ethic as the sobriety of their personal style. It’s a mood as well as something literal. It’s very hard to put into words.

Your favourite works of fiction and non fiction and why?
Too hard!
Ok here goes: The Hungry Caterpillar, The Handmaid’s Tale, The God of Small Things, The House of Mirth, and all of Jeanette Winterson, because she is a literary master!
Non fiction: anything from Germaine Greer because she is a hero and a legend and should be taught and revered in schools!

Where else do you turn for inspiration creatively?
We are inspired by dance, music, costume and other designers!

Until now, you’ve never shown TOME in Australia. Can you tell us a little about living and working in NYC and what it has done for you and for TOME? How does it feel to show back home?
It is the most validating thing to be welcomed home with open arms. In the beginning it was really important for us to translate our laid-back and unfussy Australian aesthetic into a U.S. based brand. To bring our downtown NYC woman home to Sydney is a wonderful contrast to the beginning of the inception of Tome.

Living and working in NYC is a dream come true for so many reasons. It is where our homes are and it allows us access to the world.

What is the greatest lesson you have learnt about dressing women?
Never assume anything about who a woman is and what she wants! EVER!

Tell us about the chair of your choice, the Eames LCW…. What makes it special for you? What does the chair represent for you
It sums up my dream existence…understated, casual, comfortable confidence.

Credits:
Chat in a Chair Photography by Luisa Brimble
Shot at The Studio
Runway Photography by Amanda Austin

CHAT IN A CHAIR: RYAN LOBO

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

In/Out: Tiro Tiro

Portland-based Tiro Tiro’s golden talismans are the creative genius of Teresa Robinson. They are like modern ceremonial embellishments with their graphic metal form and rough linen fringing.

Curvaceous shapes with finely pocked surfaces that create a dull lustred patina, are in sharp contrast with their feathered miniature manes. The necklaces; ‘Cercis’, ‘Campana’, ‘Iridis’ and ‘Sol’ hang ceremoniously from long snake chains. Modest and robust, the bangles resemble crowns and the fine rings of golden fat discs complete the story. The collection feels part Aztec part regimental regalia.

Tiro is latin for beginner or novice, in this case relating not to the negative connotations, but rather the experiment and improvisation that comes with a new creative mindset.

Credits: Tiro Tiro

TIRO TIRO

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

In/Out - THIS&THAT: Anne Thompson & The Satorialist

“Creating something is more like letting go than thinking,” says Sydney-based artist Ann Thomson. Celebrated for her intuitive expressive brushstrokes and superb colour combinations, Thomson’s new collection of ‘Variations’ reads like a visual diary, a perfect companion to the Sartorialist’s relaxed but sophisticated street style.

Free and brave big washes of soft tones are punctuated by distinct markings and bursts of intense colour. Bottle green, ochre, deep plums, royal blue, siren red, apricot, dusty blues, desert orange, blushing pink, deep green, warm browns all frolic together.

Rejoice in autumnal colours as the weather starts to cool and enjoy the last days of ‘Variations’ at Olsen Irwin Gallery.

Ann Thomson ‘Variations’
Olsen Irwin Gallery
63 Jersey Road
Woollahra 2025 NSW
Monday: 12-5
Tuesday-Friday: 10-6
Saturday: 10-5
Sunday: 12-5
Until 14th March 2015

Credits: Images courtesy of the artist and Olsen Irwin GalleryThe Sartorialist

THIS & THAT: Ann Thomson

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Krysta Jabczenski

Arizonian Krysta Jabczenski lookbook for Bon boutique and Desert Vintage, is a whimsical feminine daydream-scape. Colourblocked explorers in a ghost town, these ladies are curious in a ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ kind of way.

Tulle skirts, sombreros and metallic slippers colourfully parade down sun-bleached streets. Black shirted and skirted with natural rattan hats, a classic look, against vivid white and Barragán-esque style walls.

Credits: Krysta Jabczenski

Krysta Jabczenski

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

In/Out: Valentino Fall 2015

Valentino’s Fall 2015 Menswear collection is a kaleidoscope of rich colour and form. Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri took their inspiration from the Parisian Ballet Russes, and the San Franciscan Beat Generation, for a bold free spirited ensemble.

Muddy deep tones of burgundy, burnt orange, both light and navy blue are punctuated by scarlet and royal blue. Geometric forms are repeated, mirrored and scaled, manipulating and enhancing the male form. Shoulders are exaggerated, chests are broader, and waists are pinched or belted with colour blocks. Chunky zippers are expressed on matching backpacks and even the runway conforms to this new brave tribal expression.

Although the spirit is a heady mix of Beat and Ballet, the geometric expression came from a chance online encounter with Melbourne-based artist Esther Stewart. When you view Stewart’s paintings the connection is immediate, strong graphic forms in solid colour with an intrinsic flair for palette combinations.

As Piccioli so succinctly puts it “Geometry is a new form of decoration”!

Credits: Style.com

Valentino Fall 2015 Menswear

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