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In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Dries Van Noten Spring 2016Looking through Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2016 collection is a bit like entering a magical forest, or inside the jewellery box of a flamboyant movie star. Shiny fabrics and exquisite prints, bright colours and clashing colours, bold structures and fantastic embellishment – it’s eclecticism that characterises this collection (and in fact Van Noten’s eponymous label). And that’s precisely what the Belgian designer set out to do – to design a range of clothing for someone “flamboyant”. “For me that was the starting word of this collection,” he says, “that she enjoys life, she wears and she dares.”

Bold, unique, and rather fabulous are the embroidered coats in light blue and navy blue, ankle-length trousers that reflect the light, full skirts and tamer skirts, tops in glorious shades of pink, purple, mustard and aquamarine, gloves – a nod to the fashion of the 1940s, and patterns upon patterns – some that spread to the models’ bodies.

In some ways you could say it’s an expected collection from Dries Van Noten – out there and full of colour, but that would be to miss the magic. The Spring 2016, while definitely at home with the brand’s previous 20 years of designs, is entirely new; it – impressively – serves up a whole new set of colour and fabric combinations, ways of mixing colour and material. Dries Van Noten has a way of working and thinking about design that is entirely his own and quite incredible, letting material and shape play together to drive the design, finding new ways of applying colour and mixing them by giving chance and experimentation centre stage. Rather than an after thought, colour, for example, often drives the design entirely, starting with a shade Van Noten lets it evolve so that it in the end it is largely responsible for bringing to life the garment. Fabric, which is sourced from as far as Tokyo and Calcutta, he applies in chic, elegant design; letting forms come into being over time rather than following a drawing; takes inspiration from anywhere and everywhere, at any time. In a word, it’s imagination at its very heart.

As is clear from this stunning collection, process is just as important – if not more so – than the final product, because that is where the magic happens.

Credits: Dries Van Noten via Vogue
Photography: Yannis Vlamos

Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016
In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

Welcome to Erdem Pre-Fall 2016! Midnight blues and deep greens, whimsical florals and berry reds, elegant cuts and bold ones, ruffles and velvet, it’s a collection that brings to mind fantastical worlds where flower gardens bathed in moonlight always exist.

What’s particularly fantastic about Erdem Moralioglu’s collection is that at the same time it is pretty it is also powerful. Among the dresses, skirts, jackets and tops (the Canadian designer choosing not to create trousers), there are both very structured pieces and gentle flowing ones, bold block colours as well as delicate prints, strong necklines and some with much more dainty details. And there’s often a fine merging of the two aesthetics in one piece. A full, structured skirt, for example, arresting in it’s A-line cut, is fitted at the waist and the material is dotted in pretty blue flowers and metallic sheen; or a dress made entirely of lace – the most romantic of materials – is given punch with the addition of a strong neckline punctuated by black velvet. Where there are high necks there are gentle ruffles, where there are wide arms there are beautiful layers, with dark colours come details.

In essence, it’s a feminine collection with guts, a celebration of classic beauty that appeals to the modern woman at the same time. Of course, Moralioglu turned for this collection to American painter John Singer Sergeant for inspiration, so we’d expect nothing less than a collection of clothing in which women are made stars – the striking look book making that absolutely clear.

Credits: Erdem via Vogue

Erdem Pre-Fall 2016

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out: Lyn and Tony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

In/Out - 2 By LynandTony

Australian materials are often seen as weather worn, crude, even second rate to European or American ones; a hangover from colonial days gone by perhaps? Lyn Balzer and Tony Perkins of Lyn&Tony confront this psyche with their sensitive jewellery and objects. Manipulating kangaroo leather and native semi-precious stones into exquisite adornments that are appreciated globally but are most importantly; an awakening to what materials Australian designers have to call their own.

Partners in life and in work, Balzer & Perkins are multi-diciplinarians in object design, photography and installation design, falling into jewellery design by chance. While artistically directing a fashion show they produced some tactile ornaments to complement the garments, and ‘2 by Lyn&Tony’ was born.

Recently showing at the Australian Design Centre late last year Scented Intoxication exhibited the breath of Balzer & Perkins’ talents from photography, installation and jewellery design intertwined with their continuing explorations into perceptions of scent.

Since developing two candles with Maison Balzac – Obscurite (Darkness), inspired by the scent of black rocks warming in the sun by the ocean and Etrangete (Strangeness) inspired by the scent of a favourite rainforest waterfall near Byron Bay – the pair have been (what they call) “scenting everything”. ‘Scented Intoxication’ was a further development into Balzer & Perkins’ wonder and obsession with nature; its textures, weights and smells while exploring what happens when different materials come to meet each other in various stages of their natural life cycles.

Meditating on the plasticity of materiality, as always plaited, woven, cuffed and polished these objects are beacons of what the Australian environment is capable of if we only took the time that Lyn&Tony take to truly bask in its beauty.

Credits: Lyn&Tony and Subject Matter

Lyn&Tony

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2016 collection is modern and whimsical, calling on the 1970s yet current and unique to the Manhattan-born designer. With its flowing, natural fabrics and delicate detailing, sometimes incorporating structure but mostly relaxed, the collection is ultra calm and perfect for spring.

As well as the careful choice of material, it is colour that adds to the gentle tone of the range. Between soft rusts and deep navy, rosy pinks and dusty pinks, mustard yellow and plenty of classic white, it’s a colour palette that evokes images of sun and soft grass, the sea and the Californian desert. The denim inviting, Johnson choosing to go for a paler hue, a faded almost baby blue.

Along with being a coherent range as a whole – in its effortlessly dreamy tone, Ulla Johnson’s Spring is one in which each garment has its own unique touch. From the long dresses that echo those in the much-referenced ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ with their delicate embroidery, to the wide-legged flares with belt ties, pinafore dresses with ruffled straps and jumpsuits with piping, each piece is imbued with detail that gives it a sense of difference. It’s a beautiful collection. Peaceful, inviting, and clearly made for the wearer.

Credits: Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson Spring 2016

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

Paula _Cademartori_16

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

In/Out: Paula Cademartori - Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection

The designs of Paula Cademartori are no doubt striking – bright, colourful and unique, unlike anything of their kind. At the same time as possessing a real sense of energy and individuality though, it is supreme elegance that shines through. The eponymic luxury bag brand’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection is no exception. A combination of both older lines and new ones, the range is bold and eye-catching yet classic in form.

The Wonder-Paula line for example, one of her newer ranges in the collection, is full of colour, cartoon effects and vivid graphics. At the same time, it remains true to Paula Cademartori’s knack for form, with satisfying proportions and clean lines. The new Radical line, which is particularly characterised by pure design, has also the most fabulous contrasting colours as its palette – burgundy and neon yellow, black and pale nude. The Les Minaudières range again treads this line between flare and elegance, featuring exotic leathers and plexiglass silhouettes with laminated effects, fluorescent touches, tech paints, suede, yet in an entirely timeless way – its precise lines and excellent craftsmanship ensuring a neat silhouette on any outfit. With the older lines, like Heritage, perhaps more ‘classic’ on the whole, there is also a sense of individuality. The soft calf, suede, super shiny leather and pony they’re made from creating a unique aesthetic while being understated and simple first and foremost.

As well as being aesthetically pleasing, satisfying our desires for something different as well as something that will last, the collection is highly functional and made very much with the wearer in mind. “When I design my bags and shoes,” says Cademartori, “I always think about women, and firstly how to make them feel beautiful wearing them.” And that means practicality and aesthetics. “As a former industrial design student, everything that you design needs to have a purpose,” she says, “It needs to be functional.” And they are, often with numerous compartments for every possible need.

To be heard (or seen) in the crowded world of fashion – as Paula Cademartori’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 Pre-Collection is – is an achievement in itself. But to know it’s also going to also stand the test of time is something even more admirable. With a commitment to quality materials and craftsmanship, dedication to, and knowledge of, all facets of design (Cademartori completed Industrial Design studies following a master degree in Fashion Accessories at Istituto Marangoni, as well as received a “Young Fashion Manager” certificate from the Bocconi University in Milan, and worked for Versace for a number of years), Paula Cademartori achieves this. Of course, what really makes her designs work is her own creativity and the confidence to run with it. This, in the end, is why these designs succeed: they have far less to do with trends and far more to do with the vision and passion of their designer.

Credits: Paula Cademartori

Paula Cademartori Fall/Winter 2015-16

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Rosie Assoulin is giving us formal street like we haven’t seen since the 70’s. It’s a new breed of attitude brimming with fierce American soul! New Yorker, Assoulin, is a gal who knows how to have fun with a collection, dressing it up with assertive energetic cuts, mixed with old school glamour. Never afraid of bold block colour in rich tones her lively palette is revitalizing in apple green, tomato red, fairy floss pink, canary yellow and carrot orange.

Bare shoulders and provocative slits are crushingly confident, whilst floor length gowns and sweeping wide leg pants elongate the form. Assoulin reaches into the past, takes the best bits, and reinterprets, and in doing so artistically directs the modern woman.

Credits: Rosie Assoulin

Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2016

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Limber up and stretch your limbs with LA-based fashion designer, Rosetta Getty’s, Spring 2016 collection, these are fluid garments, casually elegant and oh so feminine. How wonderful to see “leisure wear” not in an athletic way but in the poetry of post modern dance.

Bias cut skirts are alive with movement; cutaways, splits and bare shoulders are part flamenco, part tango, while gold tipped gypsy ties hypnotically sway. Poised with nonchalance each garment is classically modern. Predominately a subdued palette of black and white, with warm terracotta, and dusty gold, the silk paisley ensembles strike with exotic Middle Eastern flair. All interpretative; Getty’s choreography is long-limbed, lyrical and elegant.

Credits: Rosetta Getty

Rosetta Getty Spring 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016
In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016
In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016
In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

In/Out: PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

What first stands out with Ports 1961’s Resort 2016 collection is structure. Bold, well cut, silhouettes that sit on and around the body – as opposed to hugging it close. The Canadian fashion house, founded in 1961 by Luke Tanabe, has an approach to fashion that seems not unlike the Japanese, where, rather than using only the body as a guide, clothing is formed almost away from it – fabric and shape being the main focus.

As well as fantastic tailoring in this line, there are also wonderful details, knots and ties, flecks of colour and textured ribbons and wool. Against the sheets of plain colour that make up most of the garments, it is these details that our eyes flock to. The collection is also clearly about colour – often just one, which adds to its striking effect. Blues, pinks, stripes sometimes, lots of crisp white and navy.

Images courtesy of Ports 1961 via Style

PORTS 1961 RESORT 2016

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

IN/OUT: STELLA MCCARTNEY

New York burst into Cuban carnival mode when Stella McCartney unveiled her Resort 2016. An abundance of colour and movement, sassy, brave, and fiery, her new ensembles are saturated in youthful optimism.

Large scaled lace teemed with ruffled knitwear, floral culottes with bomber jackets, shirt dresses are wrapped and tied, their ends draping casually at the front, wild horses frolic on sheer dress trims. A predominately black and white palette is punctuated with pinks, greens, bursts of florals and billowing dresses are almost fragrant with spring colour.

Although conceived in the heady heat of the Caribbean, Stella’s English heritage is rich. English Rose crossed with 60’s Mod, layered with UK confidence. Loungers, playsuits, A-line minis, stretch knitwear, pantsuits all sashay past. Self assured lasses, bright, adventurous and infectiously fun, you want to run with this crowd! Their outrageous charms disarm. Frills, spills, dusk till dawn, there are no rules here just enjoy the journey.

Credits: Stella McCartney via VOGUE

Stella McCartney Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

In/Out: Roksanda Resort 2016

Roksanda Ilinic’s Resort 2016 collection takes inspiration from the Cubists; bold lines, broken lines, and geometric shapes find expression in each outfit – in one way or another, and the line as a whole is characterised by a sense of considered abstraction.

While it’s blocky patterns and oversized shapes (a giant circle across the bodice for example) that catch our attention first, from each piece leaps a strong sense of shape in the complete sense of the word. As well as the surface, it is the structure of these skirts and coats, trousers and dresses that shout Cubism.

Here, tops are rectangular and skirts look like triangles because fabric has been cut with absolute precision. Even the crisp curve of a circle gets a place. What’s most impressive about this very definite structure though, is the collection remains a flattering one. Roksanda obviously knows proportion – and the female body.

Of course, there is another star in this collection: colour. Tangerine and turquoise blue, pale pink against bright red, white on black – a touch of fuchsia. It is an inarguably playful palette, but it also retains sophistication. There are the darker pieces, rather wintry for a resort collection but by no means unwelcome, that create balance for the whole, and where there is colour it is considered at the same time it is celebrated. There is also texture at work, perhaps another nod to cubism, and fantastic use of contrast that gives the line its edge.

Between its bold sense of shape and playful use of colour, flattering structure and variety of materials, Roksanda’s Resort Collection 2016 is both art and fashion. Wear, or hang, it’s one that deserves to be admired.

Credits: Roksanda via Style

Roksanda Resort 2016

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